How not to pick apples in lock-down

There was a lady who was picking her apples off her tree, and doing very well with a good crop. However, to get the last of the apples off the top of the tree, a ladder was needed.

There  was a pair of small step ladders in the garage, so the lady went to fetch them. It was differcult to get the ladders to the garden because of the tiwst and turns of the path, with doorways and high walls etc.

However, the lady managed it only to find that when she got to the tree; she had picked up her ironing board instead of her ladders!  

 

onions

 The idea of sowing onion seeds in August is a very good one, because it is a known fact that seeds sown at this time of year are not affected by onion fly.

However it is not always possible to do so because some land might be exposed to cold north or easterly winds which will prevent the seeds from taking off.

There will be, of cause some sites that are fortunate enough to have fairly light soil and some protection from the cold wind.

The main advantage of this is that the onion is more resultant to disease and the bulbs are larger.

Many growers sow in drills nine inches apart, however you will find that it is better to sow at twelve inches or more apart. The reason is that it is easier to use the every important hoe, in the wider row. Make sure that you do not sow deeper than half an inch.

The most important thing to do and remember, is to use the hoe frequently. This give you healthy and strong growth of the seedling during September and October. Slightly thin the seedlings in order to avoid the danger of having your crop becoming bottle-necked in the following summer.

Summer Treatment of Onions:

Here we will be looking at the transplanting of seedlings from August-sown beds, and also those coming from January sowing under glass.

As far as the preparation of the soil is concerned, all that has been said about this applies in this case. Apart from the fact that more space will be needed between the rows. You must allow at least eighteen inches in between the rows and ten inches from plant to plant in the row itself.

Seedlings that have over wintered can now be moved to a permanent site. This can be done as early as March. Do not transplant seedlings that are growing under glass until the soil as warmed up; that is until the danger of frost has past. Plant them firmly but not too deep.

During the summer feed the rows with a liquid manure however do not continue this after late July, the reason is that plants fed after that time will not keep well in the store.

Continue hoeing, but make sure you do not disturb the roots of the plant. Good onions grow in firm soil ( do not hoe too deep ) and by hoeing you secure a loose surface tilth which will act as a mulching to conserve moisture.

When the crop is approaching maturity, turn the tops over. by doing this you will direct energy from the roots into increasing the size of the onion rather than developing useless top growth.

Harvesting Your Onions.

A common mistake is to leave the onions in the soil when they have finished growing. If you do this, a secondary growth will start and the onions will not store well.

Lift the crop carefully and spread then in the sun for a few weeks so that they can thoroughly dry and ripen. Then take them to a dry, airy and light place, lay them on trays and use them as you need them.

You may of noticed that I made no mention of varieties. My advice is to grow what your neighbours grow because onions are funny things and do not like moving from north to south.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/10286467

Protecting Your lettuce from the weather..

Where you live in the world will depend on what sort of weather you will have.

Rain

Snow

Hail

Sun

Wind

Each of the above will bring their own joys, which you can do something about for the most part.

I use horticultural fleeces and netting over all of my crops and find that for the most part that will allow me to produce lettuce all the year round.

I also have a small polly tunnel and cold frame for winter lettuce. These are very useful because at some point we always get snow or frost here in the UK.

Last winter, my plot was plot was flooded for 73 days. I still grow lettuce. I had sowed some seeds in containers (really big ones) and kept these on a plant bench 4 feet off the ground, only trouble was getting to them for the flood was 25 inches deep.

I have noticed that pest and diseases are far worse on crops and gardens that are not looked after.

One of the secrets of plant protection is to have healthy soil that is well prepared and plants with vigour.

 The big guys that want your Lettuce.

As well as bugs and disease, your lettuce may well be troubled with larger animals.

The number of large animals that are after your crops will depend on where in the world you live.

Here in the UK we have a small range of animal pests;

Rabbits

Squirrels

Birds

Foxes

Cats

Dogs

Deer

Badgers

Mice and all such furry creatures.

It is only the rabbit, mice, and the deer that are going to eat your lettuce. The rest of them will root around, jump on, or dig up your crop.

To protect your lettuce is straightforward with these pests. A good fence or barrier of some sort will do the job of keeping them out.

Smaller mammals can be trapped and if the dog is yours then it is up to you to train the beast.

If you have a cat then there is nothing you can do about it…just live with it. 

A word here about cats and dogs as a health risk.

There are two parasites affecting dogs and cats that can affect humans.

Worms and a parasite called Toxopasma gondii. The risk is low but best is not to let faeces lay about your garden; remove it to a safe place.

As we know, birds are not kept out with fences, however if you have trouble with them; use netting. In the main, birds will always go for a yellow colour in preference to any thing else. 

Therefore, if you grow many yellow flowers in your garden they will feed off them and not bother your lettuce.